VW & Audi TDI CR140 ECO KIT
Installation Guide for CJAA/CBEA engines in 2009-2014 Golf TDI, Jetta TDI, Sportwagen TDI and Audi A3 TDI

This guide is to help you install your new Diesel DNA Tuning DPF, EGR & Adblue Delete Exhaust ECO Kit on your (2009-2014) VW / Audi with 2.0l CR140 Diesel Engine.

Note: The images in this guide were taken on a MK6 2011 VW Jetta TDI. There are some slight differences in other models so these images may not be 100% accurate however they are close enough to properly guide you through the installation process.

Please take time to read and understand the following…
By installing your Diesel DNA Tuning Exhaust System, you are responsible for abiding by the laws where reside and drive the car, that you have read this document and you agree with the terms stated below. It is the responsibility of the purchaser to follow all installation instruction guidelines and safety procedures supplied with your Diesel DNA Tuning Exhaust System. Diesel DNA Tuning assumes no responsibility for damages occurring from misuse, abuse, improper installation, improper operation, lack of responsible care, or all previously stated reasons resulting from incompatibility with other manufacturer’s products and/or systems. Diesel DNA Tuning exhaust products, unless otherwise specified, are designed for stock vehicle applications. If you have modified your vehicle in any way, please make sure that those mods will not affect fitment before beginning the installation process.

Whenever reinstalling factory fasteners, use factory torque specs and sequences.

Warning!!!
When working on, under, or around any vehicle exercise caution. Please allow the vehicle’s exhaust and engine to cool before commencing work, as the exhaust system and engine temperatures may cause severe burns. If working without a lift always consult the vehicle owner’s manual for correct lifting specifications. Always wear safety glasses and ensure a safe work area. Serious injury or death could occur if safety measures are not followed.

Disclaimer – For Off-Road Use Only
Many Diesel DNA Tuning parts, including all VW TDI related exhaust products, are sold for off-road use only. All performance modifications and installations are at the customers’ own risk. Diesel DNA Tuning holds no responsibility either implied or otherwise for mechanical, electrical or other failure when using any aftermarket performance products. Items sold for off-road use we don’t follow every states and provinces rules and our products are intended for racing vehicles which may never be used on a public road.
By installing any aftermarket performance product, the vehicle owner takes full responsibility for any use, and/or misuse of the product and agrees that Diesel DNA Tuning holds no responsibility for any consequences, legal, or other, of such use and/or misuse.

Parts list:
Hardware Kit Consists of the following parts:

1 Downpipe
1 Universal 19mm 90 degree plastic joiner
3 EGR Block Off Plates: 2 large and 1 medium size.
slip joint reducer with flare

Installation Instructions

Under the hood:
1) Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2) Remove the plastic engine cover. (Pull up on the four corners)
3) 1st pressure sensor (passenger side of engine)

(a) Remove the three torx bolts.
(b) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(c) Remove the brackets and set aside.
(d) With pliers, loosen the hose clamps and remove the sensor from the hoses.
(e) Set all these parts aside, they will be reinstalled later.

4) 2nd pressure sensor (rear of engine)

(a) Open up the silver heat wrapping.
(b) Disconnect the electrical connector.
(c) Remove the torx screw securing the sensor bracket to the valve cover.
(d) With pliers, loosen the hose clamp and remove the sensor (with bracket) from the hoses.
(e) Set all these parts aside, they will be reinstalled later.
5) On the upper DPF heat shield, remove the 3 nuts (10mm) and remove
the heat shield. This will not be reused.

You may reinstall the bracket, sit the sensor in it and plug the electrical connection back in, some people find this to look more organized but it is not not necessary.

6) Sensor Wires
(a) Free the 3 wires (two EGT and one O2 sensor wires) from the wire guides shown.

(b) Disconnect the ORANGE and BROWN electrical connectors next to the battery. The brown connector is in the back, up against the firewall.

They will not be used going forward

(c) Remove silver heat wrap from the oxygen sensor wire. Set aside to reinstall later.
(d) Unscrew the oxygen sensor from the DPF and set aside but do not disconnect from the vehicle.

7) Using a 13mm socket on an extension, remove the hex bolt on the DPF bracket. This bolt is slightly hidden between the DPF and the engine. Do not discard. This bolt will be reused later.

NOTE: Removal of the EGR cooler is optional, if you do not have a specific reason to remove the EGR cooler we recommend leaving it in place and using the smaller of the plates to block if off.

8) Remove the nut securing the upper bracket of the EGR canister to the turbo.

Note: This nut is hard to access. It is best accessed from the top. Reach down between the turbo and firewall to feel for it. Once you locate it, get a short 13mm wrench on it and loosen.

Under the car:
9) Remove the plastic skid plate from under the engine.

10) Remove the two metal braces from under the exhaust tunnel.

11) Unscrew the oxygen sensor from the exhaust and let it hang down.
12) Exhaust flap motor
(a) Remove the heat wrap from the exhaust flap motor and oxygen sensor wires.
(b) Disconnect the exhaust flap motor electrical connector.
(c) Unscrew 4 plastic nuts holding the plastic undercarriage protector to the body.

(d) While pulling down on the plastic undercarriage protector, pry the plastic bracket holding the electrical connectors off of the vehicle body. Then disconnect the Orange, Brown, and Black connectors. Remove the Oxygen Sensor and Exhaust Flap wire and set aside. These will not be reinstalled. You will no longer need the plastic bracket, but you can reinstall it if you want and hang the car side of the connectors on it

(e) For the Orange connector, trace the wire back to the EGT sensor in the exhaust bellow the flex pipe. Remove the wire from all of the metal retaining clips holding it in place.
(f) Apply some grease to the Orange, Brown, and Black open electrical connectors remaining on the car. This will prevent corrosion.
(g) Tuck wires away and reinstall plastic undercarriage protector.
13) Catalytic Converter Pipe Assembly
(a) Loosen the 2 nuts (13mm) on the exhaust band clamp, where the catalytic converter pipe meets the stock cat back exhaust.

(b) With a stand or second set of hands to support the catalytic converter pipe, remove the front most V-band clamp connecting the cats to the DPF pipe. The band clamp is often stuck so you may need to jar it loose with a pry bar and hammer.

(c) With the cat pipe assembly supported, carefully slide the band clamp back, remove the cat pipe assembly and set aside.

14) Remove the two bolts (13mm) securing the exhaust support to the subframe.

15) Remove the axle heat shield (two 16mm bolts).

16) Remove the six bolts (10mm triple-square) on the passenger side axle.

17) EGR filter canister
(a) Remove the small V-band clamp.

(b) Remove the two bolts (13mm) on the EGR canister flange.

(c) Remove the canister from the vehicle and set aside.

18) On the DPF pipe, just after the flex coupling, unscrew the EGT sensor from the exhaust. Set the sensor aside.

Note: If the sensor is seized into the pipe, you will have a very hard time removing the DPF from the vehicle. In this case we suggest that you lower the subframe (6 bolts) so that you have more room to pull the DPF out. If you need to lower the subframe you may need a wheel alignment once the job is complete. See the instructions on page 12 for lowering the subframe.

If you do not need to lower the subframe, proceed to next step…

Lowering the subframe (optional step):

Remove the six subframe bolts (18mm) that secure the subframe to the frame. The subframe will drop down by about one inch. It will hang from the steering system.

If you do not need to lower the subframe, proceed to next step…

19) Remove two bolts securing the dog bone brace to the transmission. This will allow the engine to move around a bit. You’ll be able to move the axle out of the way and rock the engine back and forth to access bolts.

20) Remove the four nuts (13mm) on the bracket securing the DPF to the engine. The bracket will not come out until the DPF is loose.

21) Remove the V-band clamp securing the DPF to the turbo. Volkswagen usually installs this clamp with the bolt facing downwards. If you can’t reach it from the top then you will have to use an allen bit on the end of a long extension to access it. The band clamp is often stuck so you may need to jar it loose with a pry bar and hammer. BE CAREFUL! The DPF is now loose.

22) From the top, drop the two EGT wires down alongside the DPF. This way when the DPF comes out the bottom, the wires won’t get caught on anything.

23) Use a jack stand under the front of the transmission to rock the engine forward. This will angle the back of the engine down and away from the firewall, giving you more clearance to remove the DPF.

24) It is now time to remove the DPF. From the bottom, pull the DPF down while rotating it clockwise. The DPF should actually be rotated 180 degrees when it is finally pulled out through the exhaust tunnel. See photos bellow:

Note: If you did not loosen the subframe, this can be challenging. Make sure that the brackets and/or wires are not getting hung up on anything. The bracket is going to try and poke through the heat shield. Try and bend the heat shield around the bracket as you slowly inch the DPF out of the tunnel. If you can’t get it out, you can loosen the subframe as described on page 12.

25) Remove the rubber and plastic exhaust bracket from the DPF and set aside. It will be reinstalled later.

26) Re-install the axle to the transmission coupler. (six triple-square bolts)
27) Re-install the subframe if you had to loosen it. Try to get the subframe lined up as much as possible in its original location. There are no locating pins to line it up.

Note: You may need to go for a wheel alignment.

28) EGR block off plate

(a) Carefully clean the gasket surface on the EGR cooler.
(b) Locate the original gasket and two (13mm) bolts from the EGR filter canister. Clean both sides if the gasket.
(c) Apply a thin layer of high temp silicone gasket maker to both sides of the gasket. (we use Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper )
(d) Stick the gasket to the provided aluminum EGR block off plate.
(e) Using the original (two 13mm) bolts, install the aluminum EGR block off plate and gasket onto the back of the engine.
29) Downpipe
a) Carefully clean the gasket surface on the turbo outlet.
b) Locate the original Turbo/DPF gasket. Clean both sides of the gasket. Install the gasket to the inlet of the downpipe, over the centering sleeve.
c) From the top of the engine, carefully maneuver the downpipe into place with the centering sleeve slipping into the turbo outlet.

d) Install the original V-band clamp over the downpipe and the turbo outlet flange. Do not fully tighten. It should be snug but you should still be able to rotate the downpipe inside the turbo a little bit.

e) Rotate the downpipe into position so it sits in its most natural direction.
g) Now tighten the V band clamp so it is secure but the downpipe can still rotate if need be. you will want to do the final torque to spec from the top.
Note: The clamp is designed to stretch so it will break before it ever bottoms
out. Do not over tighten.

30) Reinstall Sensors
(a) Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads of the O2 sensor.
(b) Reinstall the primary O2 sensor into the downpipe.

Optional:
(Reinstall the pressure sensors with their brackets to the engine as they originally were. Make sure that the sensors are connected electrically. For the sensor on the passenger side of the engine, there will be no hoses going to it. You will just leave the pressure ports open to atmosphere. For the pressure sensor on the rear of the engine there will be only one hose available. You will connect this hose to the appropriately sized pressure port. The other port will stay open to atmosphere.

d) Install the plastic and rubber exhaust bracket onto the subframe as it originally was.
e) Put the front half of the midpipe up into position with the 13 mm hex bolts as it originally was

h) Install the provided reducer with the flare on it on the rear of the downpipe. Re-use the narrowest vband clamp to connect it to flare on the secondary muffler after you remove the exhaust flap.

j) Make sure that everything is lined up nicely and fully tighten.

32) Reinstall the two metal braces under the exhaust tunnel.
34) Reinstall the axle heat shield.

35) Reinstall the two bolts into the transmission dog bone brace.

36) Reinstall the plastic skid plate under the engine. Reinstall the plastic engine cover.
37) Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
38) Enjoy.